Auto Insurance Quotes

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Many senior citizens have been loyal to their auto insurance companies for years, often decades. Having the same genuine insurance agent and company is comforting. But the auto insurance industry has become more competitive, actively vying for the senior citizen market. It makes sense for senior citizens to gather information to compare their fresh rates, especially at the time of auto insurance renewal.

Getting quotes for auto insurance is an easy process. With just a few clicks on the computer or toll-free telephone calls, anyone can gather a list that compares auto insurance by services and rates. For senior citizens, who often are on fixed incomes, this can be a very cost-effective exercise, possibly saving them hundreds of dollars during an insured period.

Finding Comparable Rates

Buying auto insurance is like any other important, long-term seize. The key is to take time to research and shop for the best deal with reliable auto insurance companies.

The following is a sample of insurance companies and insurance brokers offering auto insurance quotes on the Internet. Many have specific marketing programs targeting senior citizens.

AARP: www.aarp.thehartford.com.
AARP is an advocacy organization for seniors that promotes the interests of people over 50 years outmoded. They offer auto insurance to members through The Hartford.

Allstate: www.allstate.com.
Allstate is a well known insurance company. Quotes can be gathered at the above website or local agents can be found in the telephone book and are available to aid in preparing a free quote.

Farmers Insurance Group: http://www.farmersinsurance.com.
Online or in person, a Farmers insurance agent can review auto insurance coverage, help identify potential gaps, and include any qualifying Farmers Auto insurance discounts.

Progressive Insurance: www.progressive.com.
Progressive will provide a quote for their company along with comparables of other auto insurance companies for easy comparisons.

Geico Insurance: www.geico.com.
This company can be accessed online or at one of their many offices. It is easy to get a quote; they offer flexible payment options and competitive rates.

Costco: www.costco.com.
Costco offers membership insurance through Ameriprise Auto & Home Insurance.

Autoinsure: www.autoinsure.org.
Autoinsure has a page with helpful insurance information for senior citizens. They can provide quotes from all the major auto insurance companies.

Esurance: www.esurance.com.
A rising star among insurance companies that buy pride in stating: “Esurance doesn’t just offer pleasurable insurance coverage, we also believe in educating consumers.” Their online quote process is easy to navigate.

US Insurance: www.usinsuranceonline.com
They will provide multiple auto insurance quotes tailored to specific needs within minutes of filling out their simple short form. It’s easy then to compare them side by side to find the best prices and coverage.

Car Insurance Rates: www.carinsurancerates.com
Their network of companies and brokers offer a variety of car insurances: Farmers, Allstate, AIG, Nationwide, AARP, Safeco Insurance, Liberty Mutual, MetLife and Mercury.

Every insurance rate: www.everyinsurancerate.com
EveryInsuranceCompany.com is a handy Internet directory to find local insurance companies, insurance quotes and discount insurance rates.

Quote Scout: www.quotescout.com.
This website will provide quotes from a long list of auto insurance companies – literally from “A” to “Z”.

Insurance.com: http://www.insurance.com.
Insurance.com works directly with 15 highly rated car insurance companies in 46 states: 21st Century, Electric Insurance, Esurance Auto Insurance, The Hartford, Infinity, Liberty Mutual, Meritplan Insurance, MetLife Auto Insurance, Newport Insurance, Permanent General Assurance Corporation (The General), Progressive, QBE Insurance, Safeco, Travelers Insurance, and Unitrin Direct.

Keeping Auto Insurance Rates Down

There are ways that senior citizens can take responsibility to control their auto insurance rates. Here are a few suggestions.

According to seniorjournal.com, most of the major auto insurance agencies provide a 5% – 10% discount to drivers beginning at the ages of 50 or 55. However, as a group, drivers 75 and older have one of the highest rates of fatal daytime accidents. Because of this, it’s important that senior drivers stay proactive and involved in keeping their driving skills titillating.

Many states offer an auto insurance discount for used drivers if a person meets a given age criteria and has taken an approved mature driver safety course. Local colleges and senior centers are good resources to learn about the classes. AARP has local and on-line access to the course. Costco offers its members an online drivers’ safety training course through FirstNet: www.firstnetlearning.com.

Another design to keep auto insurance rates down is to drive a low-profile car, one that as part of a group has a lower rate due to minimum repair costs, considered safer and less likely to be stolen. Check the Highway Loss Data Institute, www.iihs.org, for the latest related data.

Ask modern auto insurance needs and requirements. Changing to higher deductibles or dropping collision or comprehensive coverage for older cars may develop sense.

Always ask about discounts when purchasing or renewing auto insurance.

And finally, the best long-term advice: Always drive defensively, stay alert and follow the driving laws. Maintaining a safe driving record is the best way to keep auto insurance rates down.

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Auto insurance agent has the ability to find the best automobile insurance coverage that suits your needs. With the help of insurance agent, you can set aside time and find the right automobile insurance coverage in a short time. Professional insurance agents know how to find the most affordable car insurance coverage based on credit score, budget, and state requirements. Before hiring an auto insurance agent, you must do research on the fees and customer service.

You should speak with the car insurance agent face to face or on the telephone. While talking with the agent, you can ask how he earns commissions and how considerable commissions he earns in each sale. The agent should outline all the hidden charges. In this way, you can effectively compare the commission rates between different agents. You can perform phone calls to several auto insurance agents and speak with them. When the agent tells you about the commission, you should narrate it on a piece of paper. After you have finished making phone calls, you can review the commission rates charged by different agents and narrow down your list to those you can afford.

The agent should be licensed to provide services in the state. If the agent is not licensed, it means he is not certified. Agents that are not licensed usually have lesser knowledge in finding auto insurance deals. Since they cannot legally provide insurance agent service, customers should avoid hiring them. To prove that the agent is licensed, you can ask him to show his business license and certification. A licensed agent will not mind showing the license.

To resolve the reliability of his service, you can ask him to provide a list of the clients' telephone numbers. You can call his clients and ask them whether the agent had helped them to locate an insurance coverage that meets their needs. If the clients give positive feedbacks, you can be assured that the agent can help you to bag a good auto insurance deal as well.

If you hire the agent, produce sure you inform him about your personal details such as age, employment, salary, medical report and etc. If you are interested in an insurance company, you can ask the agent to do research for you. Before signing the auto insurance deal, you should let the agent explain the terms to you.

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“They say that money can’t buy happiness, but they’re wrong. Because money can buy you a waverunner!”
-Nick Swardson, comedian-

You see them when you’re on vacation. Fast-moving water-toys, ridden by people with wide smiles plastered to their faces. They radiate excitement, fun, and adventure. “Man! I’ve got to have one of those!” you think. “I could be blasting across the water, wind in my hair, free to go wherever I want! Sexy women will swoon as I blast past!”

That’s exactly what I concept, and I acted on those thoughts. Here are the lessons I learned.

What is a waverunner?

Actually, I’m referring to a general family of watercraft that includes any small vehicle where the rider and passenger(s) sit or stand on top of the craft, rather than sitting down in it. Kawasaki started this field with the Jet-Ski® in 1973. This model required the rider to stand up, holding onto handlebars, and riding the craft more or less like a slalom ski. It was invented by a former motorcycle racer (Clayton Jacobson II) to emulate water-skiing without the boat. Unfortunately, the coordination required to conclude upright exceeded the ability of many would-be riders, and the Jet-Ski® has become the domain of well-coordinated athletes.

In 1978, the Arctic snowmobile company got in on the game with a “sit-down” version, called the Wet-Bike®. Made and marketed to copy the experience of riding a motorcycle on the water, the Wet-Bike® was popular, but eventually overtaken by a more “water-oriented” version of personal watercraft (PWC).

Yamaha introduced the Waverunner® in 1986, and it has gone on to dominate the style for PWC’s since the mid 1990′s. Based more on standard boat-hull designs, the Waverunner was stable and easy to ride, while still giving you the “wind-in-the-hair” feeling of a motorcycle. Beginners can sit right down on one, and with brief safety and equipment instructions; take right off. There are many manufacturers of this type of craft now, and they’re often referred to generically as waverunners (lower case). Even Kawasaki sells waverunner-style craft (though they still use the name Jet-Ski!). http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/Watercraft.aspx

There’s a new (2007) game in town that looks like fun, called the Deckjet (http://www.deckjetwatercraft.com/). Made to emulate a surfboard with an engine, it may be relegated to the “athletes-only” category, but nonetheless looks like an absolute blast!

Here are links to manufacturers of waverunners.

Bombardier (Sea-Doo): http://www.sea-doo.com/en-US/

Honda: http://powersports.honda.com/watercraft/

Kawasaki: http://www.kawasaki.com/Products/Watercraft.aspx

Yamaha: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/waverunner/products/lifestylehome/home.aspx

How does it work?

Waverunners use a jet-propulsion system to suck water in and blow it out, forcing the craft to disappear forward. The system consists of a gasoline engine, which drives a propeller that’s housed in a tube (an “impeller”), which has an inlet in the front lower half of the craft, and an outlet at the rear. A small rudder controls the direction of the jet of water, thus controlling the direction of the craft. The rudder is connected to the handlebars, and takes very little effort to turn.

Traditionally, engines in waverunners have been of the “two-stroke” variety (like chainsaws, and ancient lawn mowers). These engines were simpler, and lighter weight than more new “four-stroke” motors, but make more noise and pollution. Today, most manufacturers are moving toward four-stroke engines, for better fuel economy and emission-control. They’re also a LOT quieter.

What’s it like?

You arrive before your date. Carrying the gas can down the pier, you region down supplies, and climb into water to achieve in the gas. After putting your emergency supplies in the stowage areas, you don a life vest, lower the waverunner into the water from the lift, and climb aboard. The seat is wider than a motorcycle, and very soft. You fasten the safety tether to your wrist, tie your hat down securely, and punch the starter button. Beneath you, the engine roars to life. You put the drive into reverse, and back off the lift, then head out the inlet to the lake. Once past the “no wake zone” buoy, you grip the lever in front of your lawful index finger, and open the throttle. The engine roars to full speed, and the waverunner digs into the water, coming quickly “on plane”, that state where most of the craft is out of the water, skimming along with little danger. The craft accelerates like a big motorcycle, pulling your arms out straight. Wind blasts your face, and the straps of your hat tug against your chin. You’re glad for the sunglasses, which help you guage the height of waves, and presence of debris on the water. You slalom back and forth, enjoying the g-forces, as you slice long, graceful arcs through the water, then you hunker down low, and go as fast as you can in a straight line. Nothing on the lake will preserve up with you today! The air is determined, and the engine is pulling well. With smooth water, you’ll cruise at over 50 mph.

Heading back to the pier, you purchase up your girlfriend, and establish in your earplugs. (She screams like a banshee at plump throttle! Of course you’ll be at full throttle most of the time…) Together, you cruise up the lake, exploring inlets, and watching other boaters. Finally, you pull up at your destination; a restaurant with lake frontage. You let off your girlfriend, and tie up the waverunner like a horse, at a western saloon. Slinging your lifejackets into stowage, and removing your hat, you notice people looking at you, your date, and the waverunner as you enter the restaurant. You know what they’re thinking…. “Man! I gotta have one of those!” Yep, you think… you’ve gotta….

Which waverunner should I buy?

All the manufacturers make good, honorable waverunners today. Some are better for particular purposes. Often, the choice comes down to personal taste, or the proximity of a particular marina.

If you’re planning family fun, you’ll want a larger unit, advantageous of carrying passengers and pulling floats. You usually have to get a 3-person pwc to pull a float, and a big engine (800 cc or larger). If you will be spending a LOT of time on the water, consider a newer four-stroke unit, for increased reliability, and decreased fuel use. They’re also easier on the ears (though most people on a waverunner for the first time report not even noticing the sound!)

If you’re planning to race, your best bet is to attend some races, and see what people in your area are using. A big factor will be the availability of support in your situation, for whatever trace you choose. Racing involves repairing, so find one people know how to work on!

Big, comfortable waverunners are still remarkably hastily, so don’t consider that you have to buy a “sport” version to get substantial thrills. My stout, comfy family cruiser will occasionally hit 54 mph on smooth water, which feels much faster yet! The big ones like this are a bit more of a handful for turning and maneuvering, but they are nice and stable.

My own waverunner is a 1200cc two stroke, with about 120 horsepower, and feels like a rocket. (I’ve raced cars and motorcycles; the waverunner experience is a lot like a big sport bike.) Newer models go all the way up to turbocharged four cylinder, four stroke versions, with over 200 horsepower!

A critical feature in choosing a waverunner is “where will I be using it? ” Scope out the body of water you think you’ll be on most frequently, and choose a model supported by a local marina. Having the support of a local marina will ease your mind, and your workload tremendously.

My splendid friends at Tall Timbers Marina, in Monticello, Indiana (http://www.talltimbers.com/) have been a tremendous back to me.

Beside the waverunner itself, what else will I need, and how much will it cost?

Fine question! This is where people often underestimate the cost of any hobby, but especially anything that involves water. Some frail wisdom is in order here. I cannot properly attribute these quotes, because they most likely originated in ancient times….

“A boat is a hole in the water, through which you pour money….”

“The two happiest days of a boater’s life are the day he buys his first boat…and the day he sells his first boat….”

In addition to the waverunner itself, you’ll need:

Gas & oil : Depending on how hard you ride, and whether you get a two or four stroke, you may need a lot. My own 1200 cc two-stroke waverunner will burn about 10 gallons of fuel per hour, with two people aboard, and riding hard enough to have fun. Figure at least $30.00/hr.

Floatation: Each passenger (and anyone you pull on a float) will have to have an approved floatation device. Of course, you’ll be too cool to wear the basic orange ones, so figure at least $40.00 per person.

Place to ride: Do you live on the water? Great. No additional expense, assuming you can catch in and out of the water without expense. If you have to use a ramp that charges a fee, figure at least $10.00 per visit. If you have to rent a place to stay on the water, of course, the sky’s the limit.

Boat lift: If you live on the water, you’ll want the waverunner OUT of the water between uses. (I didn’t do this the first year, and you wouldn’t believe the SCUM that’ll grow on perfectly composed fiberglass!) A small boat lift suitable for a pwc will run from $1,000-$3,000 new. I found a used one for $500.00.

Storage: During the winter, you’ll want to store your pwc, preferably indoors, and someplace safe. If you have to rent storage space, this can run from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars, depending on where you’re located.

Transport: If you don’t live on water, or rent a slip on the water, you’ll have to transport the pwc to and from the water. Hopefully, you don’t have to buy a new vehicle to pull your recent trailer. Figure on anywhere between $500.00 to $5,000.00, depending on your taste.

Misc.: The boat will find a way to spend your money. Cleaning supplies, line to tie up to shore, anchors, repair equipment, waterproof containers to carry your stuff, maintenance costs, registration, insurance… I’m positive I’ve forgotten some.

How much do waverunners cost?

I lived on a cop’s salary for 18 years, so I’ve learned to score bargains, and live cheap. I don’t buy new vehicles. New waverunners can be bought anywhere from the high $3,000 range up to nearly $20,000. Traditional waverunners are available down to around $500.00, if you’re willing to have an older, smaller, slower unit. (Prepare for repair and maintenance bills if you go to the extreme low end.) I ended up with a used, 1998 Yamaha XL1200 Waverunner for $3400. It’s been on the water for 2 years now, with no major failures or expenses, beyond those mentioned above. I cherish it. (But then, I race cars, so I’m broken-down to throwing away money on a hobby…)

So…. IS it cheaper to rent it??

Yes, probably. Unless you have access to water most of the time, and like to be able to go out on the spur of the moment, and do so frequently. This is the case for me, and I like the freedom of “owning my own”, so that I don’t have to meet somebody else’s schedule, etc. I don’t have any transportation, storage, or access fees.

Maybe even for me, it would be cheaper, but I purchase to have control…

Even if a place charges $100/hour, and you rented for 20 hours a year, 3 years in a row, you’d impartial reach the point of having the investment in an inexpensive waverunner, trailer, storage, license, insurance, and in/out ramp fees. And you wouldn’t have any of the hassles, headaches, and liability.

Safety considerations.

If it’s been a while since your high school “Boater’s safety” class, consider taking a refresher course. Learn the rules of the water, and your State’s laws, regarding legal operation. Your marina can help you out with this.

Although waverunners are simple enough for children to operate, they should not do so alone. Each status has specific laws regarding the operation of these watercraft by children. If you operate a pwc with a child aboard, make sure they know what to do if thrown off the vehicle. Choose brightly colored floatation devices, so dismounted passengers can be easily seen and avoided by other boaters.

Remember that water is hard when you hit it at high speed. Hitting the water when thrown from a fast-moving pwc or pull-behind can knock you unconscious or cause injury (including drowning, or being hit by another boat).

Pulling a tube or other floatation “toy” behind the waverunner changes it’s handling dramatically. Start slowly to learn the feel. Know that on the object being pulled, speeds seem exponentially higher. 20-25 mph is blindingly like a flash when you’re skating along close to the water!

Waverunners suck water in from beneath the craft, and blow it forcefully out the rear. Avoid getting body parts or water debris (floating logs, wood, LINES, etc.) reach the inlet or outlet of the pwc.

Learn the proper diagram for uprighting an overturned pwc, and always wear the safety tether that attaches to your wrist and turns the motor off if you’re thrown overboard.

You’ll want polarized sunglasses (with a strap) or goggles, because wind will blind you at the speeds you can attain. I like a hat for eye (and head) shade, but they’re difficult to keep on.

Dealing with emergencies.

Before you go out, learn the layout of the lake, including the location of marinas that might be able to assist in an emergency. Put the phone numbers of the marina (and maybe any rescue workers) on a cell phone, put the cell phone in a waterproof box, (with a credit card, and some cash!) and put the box in the waverunner’s storage area. Throw in a cramped, emergency paddle, in the rare case the waverunner conks out on you in the middle of the lake, and nobody’s around to offer help. You’ll feel a lot more score if you lift these precautions.

Final thoughts.

My waverunner purchase took a lot of self-education and shopping around. In the kill, I paid more for the whole package than I really wanted to, but got off about as well as I could hope for. If I didn’t have people to allotment the experience with, I’d have sold it after the first year, because you can only blast up and down the lake so many times before it loses it’s appeal. Having family and friends visit and laugh themselves senseless, though, has made it all worthwhile. There’s nothing like the exhaustion that comes from shrieking and laughing with your children. I’m going to retain it.

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If you are shopping for auto insurance, don’t overpay. Here are 10 tips on how to be obvious that you are getting the best auto insurance quote.

1. Take your time and shop around. The cost of car insurance can vary widely from one company to another. To be sure you get the best auto insurance quote, take the time to obtain at least three quotes before you choose a policy.

2. Only purchase as much auto insurance as you need. For example, you might consider skipping collision insurance if you drive an older model car that is worth less than $1,000.

3. To get the best auto insurance quote, increase the deductible on your auto insurance policy if you can afford to. Whether this makes sense for you will depend on whether you can afford to pay $500 or $1,000 up front in the event of an accident. If so, raising the deductible from $250 to $500 might save you 10% or more, and hiking it to $1,000 would result in ever greater savings.

4. Before requesting a quote, find out what discounts are available to you. Most auto insurance companies offer numerous discounts, including some that are not well known. For example, you might be eligible for a discount if you participate in a low-risk occupation, are a member of a professional organization, have certain safety features (such as anti-lock brakes) on your car, are a senior citizen and/or have recently taken a defensive driving course. Also, ask the human resources department at your company whether your employer offers group auto insurance discounts.

5. To accept the best quote on auto insurance (and all you insurance) buy as much as you can from one company. You can usually place money by combining coverage and purchasing multiple policies, such as both your homeowner’s and auto insurance policies, from the same company.

6. Be positive you are buying the right auto insurance policy for you. For example, if you don’t effect a lot of miles on your car each year, you might want to investigate premiums on low-mileage auto insurance policies (sometimes called pay-as-you-go policies) if they are offered in your spot. Premiums on pay-as-you-go policies may be based on a specified range of miles driven or trusty miles driven, and, for some drivers, can be big money savers.

7. For the best possible auto insurance quote, be sure your credit rating is in good shape before you open shopping, because the auto company will take it into account in pricing your policy. If considerable and possible, take steps to improve your credit rating before you buy a policy so that you can get the benefit of your better rating for the full term of the contract.

8. Maintain a good driving record. Most auto insurance companies offer discounts for having clean driving represent for a defined period, usually three years. While there is nothing you can do about past blemishes on your driving record, you can work at keeping it blemish-free in the future, which will eventually pay off in lower car insurance premiums.

9. Skip the extras that can drive up the cost of auto insurance. Omitting towing, car rental coverage, and loss of income from you policy can lower your premiums.

10. If you are shopping for auto insurance when your existing policy is about to expire, review it carefully. This is a friendly time to reevaluate the deductible, collision coverage, policy extras and discounts to be distinct that you are not paying for more coverage than you need and to ensure that you are getting all the discounts you deserve. If your credit score has improved, build sure that your agent is aware of that and take advantage of the renewal discount.

While saving money on auto insurance is critical, if possible, don’t make price the only criteria for choosing a policy. Talk to friends and family for recommendations and feedback about auto insurance companies and be sure that the policy you select is right for you.

Sources:

www.edmunds.com, How to Save Money on Auto Insurance – Edmunds.com

pueblo.gsa.gov, FCIC: Nine Ways to Lower Your Auto Insurance Costs

www.ohmygov.com, Is pay-as-you-go car insurance a viable alternative?

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